Buenos Aires

Ahmad: We got onto the bus and were astounded by how comfortable it was. The seats were huge and as promised went almost all the way back. We were given a soft drink just after boarding followed by a snack (consisting of the best biscuits known to man – Alfa Jores, these are generally a chocolate or cream layer sandwiched between two soft biscuits and are hugely popular in Argentina).

Around 10PM on our journey we were woken by the stewardess for our evening meal (argentinian time) which was something like a meal on a plane. After eating we went to sleep (Laura slept all the way through, I didn’t as Laura had stolen my pillow), and arrived roughly on time in Buenos Aires. Thankfully the bus was neither too hot nor too cold (unlike the last bus) but the sleeping bag will be with me on all bus journeys from now on.

We arrived in Buenos Aires on time and quickly managed to get to the hostel on the tube. After checking in and a quick shower we headed out to San Telmo. San Telmo is a bohemian neighbourhood with lots of little boutiques, bars and restaurants. We had wanted a glass of wine but after looking around for an hour or so and then finally finding some Confeteria’s (like a cafe restaurant) at some of the prices that bars charge (similar to the UK) we headed back to the hostel.  We were told by the hostel staff that we had gone out for a glass of wine way to early, chic Argentineans don’t head out till 1 or 2 AM at the earliest.

The following day we got up for our free breakfast (I still can’t get over the fact that hostels here give you a free basic breakfast) we headed out to the main square in Buenos Aires. This is where the presidential palace is and where Evita used to stand and wave at the people. We visited the nearby cathedral where the founder of Argentina is buried in state (still guarded by armed guards) and then had a wander around the downtown shopping area.

That evening we had arranged to meet up with Crystal and Javier (whom we met in Puerto Iguazu) at a quiz night at a bar in Palermo (the cool district to go out). Crystal came to meet us at the hostel and a quick cab ride later we arrived at the bar. On arrival we were told that the entry fee was 40 Peso’s (£6) with a free drink. We (grudgingly) paid but I was on a separate team to Laura and Crystal, the free drink turned out to be a disappointing half. The idea behind the night is to have teams of four, with two native English speakers with two native Spanish speakers. My team was a little dull (made up of one Argentinean, one American living in Buenos Aires and a Brit on his placement year for a Spanish degree).  Laura’s team was a lot better and was made up of Laura and Crystal as well as two Argentineans (Ezequiel and his friend Maura).

After a few drinks (at happy hour prices) my team started to get going and we managed to tie with another team (not Laura’s) for first place, we lost out on the final question but hey, it’s all about socialising rather than winning the quiz (I keep telling myself this – it doesn’t help). After the quiz finished I moved table to Laura’s team which was much more fun. Crystal had work the following day so left directly after the quiz but Javier turned up shortly afterwards, and the drinking continued once our budget was depleted Javier (very kindly gave us a lift home and refused to accept any petrol money).

We were very hung-over the next day so went out to get some breakfast and did little else all day apart from recover and drink lots of water (a trip to the supermarket almost killed us).

After breakfast the next day, feeling recovered we walked around a nature reserve (this was quite dull as it’s only just turning to spring in Buenos Aires and the nature reserve was largely dead grass) and then had a dirty burger (exactly like the kind you get outside of club at 3AM). After an eventful day (that burger was a killer) we chilled out for the rest of the evening at the hostel.

We sorted out our bus tickets the next day (£75 each to Bariloche), followed by a visit to the post office and a quick visit to the supermarket to acquire some much needed wine to de-stress after being violated by the bus company (scratch my statement in a previous blog about buses being reasonable). We visited the Zoo the next day which is always fun (I think I must have been to ten Zoo’s since being away) and had yet another dirty burger – they grow on (and possibly in) you.

On our final day in Buenos Aires we had arranged to meet up with Javier, he picked us up in his car and we went for some amazing BBQ in Palermo, it was Meat! Meat! Meat! with the Argentinean equivalent of black pudding as well as two kinds of steak, I can’t express how good the steak is here and it was a cracking meal, as well as being pretty reasonable had Javier not snuck off and paid the entire bill without telling us (we did try but Javier wouldn’t let us give him any cash to compensate him!).

After lunch, Javier took us on a city tour, initially a walking tour around Palermo which has a market on the weekend (local designers hire a rack in a bar and sell their wares during the day). It’s insane to think that most of these bars are full to the brim at night.

After Palermo, we got back into Javier’s car and then drove around the city taking it all in. Javier is one of the nicest people we have met on this trip. After our (four hour) tour and a quick beer in a Confeteria we said our goodbyes and promised to meet up in the future (when Javier comes to Europe).

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